Budget Wine of the Week

Little James' Basket Press from Chateau Saint Cosme www.saintcosme.com/en/ is an interesting wine at a great price. It is a non-vintage grenache from Gigondas and made via the solera system. My experience with the solera system has been predominantly with Sherry, so I was excited to give this rare find a try. The solera system for Little James was started in 1999, and this particular bottle is made up of 50% of the 2007 vintage with the remainder being a blend of the older vintages. Consistency is the goal.

The color was a reddish-orange likely due to the age of the blended vintages and there was significant sediment in the bottom of the glass. The bits were large enough to lodge in one's teeth for a potentially embarrassing moment. The wine looked light in the glass.

The nose consisted of damp mushroom compost which is a familiar smell in my part of the world. In addition, notes of strawberries and leather and hints of flower shop. The nose was complex and a treat to the senses. In the mouth, the body was light but well balanced matching the look in the glass. The tannins were smooth, and the acidity was fresh and crisp. On the palate was a distinct presence of green banana, candied apple, and a hint of roses. The finish of golden raisins was prominent but short lived leading to a bit of disappointment. A very well rounded wine nontheless.

I rated it a 16/20 with the only real notable faults being the appearance and the light (for Grenache) body. This is a true bargain at $10, and I'll be adding more to the rack!

Budget Wine of the Week

This week's wine is from the birthplace of all winemaking; the Republic of Georgia. Evidence exists that Vitis Vinifera Vinifera was domesticated in this region somewhere around 6000 B.C. For more information on the history of ancient wines, Patrick McGovern's Ancient Wine; The Search for the Origins of Viniculture is a good read. I have always been curious as to how these wines compare to wines from other parts of the world. Dr. Konstantin Frank's Rkatsiteli from the Finger Lakes, NY is as close as I have come to tasting an ancient varietal until now. I was able to pick up this bottle at The Wine Library in Springfield, NJ.

The Tsinandali 2007 I tasted is from the Kakheti region in the Tsinandali microzone. It is a blend of the tongue twisting Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes, and immediately the very pale yellow-gold color is notable. In fact, I had to look quite closely to note any color at all. The bouquet is equally light with crisp notes of pineapple, coconut, and stone fruit like golden plum. This wine is aged in oak with the coconut notes giving that away. There is a also a slight buttery essence attibuted to a bit of malolactic fermentation.

In the mouth, the wine feels light but balanced matching the nose. There is moderate acidity with little noticeable alcohol. Flavors of cooked peaches, lime, and some grassy notes make for an interesting taste profile, but taste them while you can. The finish is short but cleansing. However, it left me with a desire for more. The Tsinandali would be great with baked or grilled fish. The crisp, cleansing qualities would also make this wine a good match for cream sauces or cheese. I give this wine a rating of 16/20, and at $8 per bottle this could easily be an everyday white particularly in the summer and fall months.

Budget Wine of the Week

After a long hiatus, I have decided to give this another go. Starting with a budget wine review may make more sense now than ever with the economy continuing its struggle and most of us in need of a bit of a diversion. I recently travelled to Chile and will offer some reviews of the wines tasted in Apalta in the near future, but for now, I'll taste a wine from one of my favorite places on earth. Greece.

This week's selection is Vaeni Naoussa 2004 from the eponymous region of Macedonia. Greece that is. Naoussa is a demarcated OPAP region, and Xinomavro is the only varietal permitted to be grown there. Most Greeks and many other fans believe Xinomavro to be a noble variety. I tend to agree. Then again, I tend to favor the oddball varietals at times.

In the glass the Naoussa shows a transluscent ruby red with some copper tones. It looks as though it will be a light wine, but that would be surprising for this varietal. The wine has the look of a Pinot Noir. Surprisingly, there is a bit of sentiment in the glass, but to me that is sometimes a bonus. The UC Davis scale would disagree, but to me a wine that is not overly filtered can have tremendous character. On the nose is the sweet aroma of candied cherries, dried thyme, and cut violets. The nose is light but distinct. In the mouth, the delight of Maraschino cherries, milk chocolate, and a bit of pot roast. Sounds like a Sunday afternoon at Grammy's to me. This is a well balanced wine with a medium body and crisp acidity. The tannins are soft and rounded indicating that this wine is ready now. The finish is long, and I was still getting the milk chocolate notes a good 45 seconds after the taste. With the acidity and medium body, this wine will pair well with Mousakka, Keftedakia, or anything with red sauce such as pasta or pizza. I would rate this at 16/20, and it is well worth the $10 price! In fact, I'm sorry I only have two bottles :(

Budget Wine of the Week 2

This week's wine is from the Bordeaux region of France and was produced by a premier chateau. A good rule of thumb when seeking a quality wine at a budget price is to seek out wines made by producers with an excellent reputation that also produce wine from grapes that are not selected for use in their premier wines. Chances are the second tier wine will be well made as these producers have a passion for their craft and wish to maintain their reputations. This is the case for this week's wine; the Mouton Cadet Bordeaux 2007. It was produced by the Chateau Mouton Rothschild which became a first growth Bordeaux in 1973 after having been relegated to second growth by the original 1855 classification. The grapes do not all come from the premier cru vineyard, but instead are sourced from various parts of Bordeaux. No matter. The quality is still there in this blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle at a great price of about $9.

The appearance is clear and vibrant with a pale, straw yellow color. The nose is buttery with the scents of dried hay, ripe peaches, and honeysuckle. The aromas are of a significant intensity and bright. As expected of such a young wine, the acidity is mouth watering while the finish is relatively dry. The wine is well balanced with just a bit of sweetness. Clearly this is closer to an Old World wine with the 12% alcohol content offering further proof. There are flavors of stones and butter with a slight hint of honeydew on the rather short finish. This is a good quality wine, and it would go well with things without legs such as nice pot of steamed mussels or grilled mahi mahi. This wine was made for drinking with food so having it as an apetif would probably lead to disappointment. Overall, it's a nice wine, and I would rate it at 17/20 making it a bit above average. Not a home run but getting closer.

St. George's Parish, Bermuda

St. George's Parish sits at the northern end of the group of islands that make up Bermuda. St. George's Town is the focal point of the parish and is a 400 year old walkable town that was not too long ago named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For venturing further afield, the pink, public buses run frequently and are on time for the most part. Having just a long weekend to visit Bermuda, I had to focus on a manageable itinerary so as not to cram in too much at the risk of not really "seeing" anything. So, I did not travel to the more modern Hamilton City.

There was surprisingly much to see and do in the area surrounding St. George's Parish. I made Aunt Nea's Inn my homebase. The Inn sits on a quiet street and is only a 2 minute walk to King's Square in the heart of St. George's Town. Everything in Bermuda is pricey and Aunt Nea's was no exception costing US $250 per night http://www.auntneas.com/. The rooms are well equipped and feature four-post beds but smell a bit of mildew. I attributed that to the age of the home and the unrelenting humidity. A simple breakfast of toast, muffins, cereal, yogurt, and fruit is included and can be taken on the balcony overlooking the property's gardens in addition to the town and harbor. The staff were extremely engaging, helpful, and a highlight of the trip steering me to an excellent local restaurant that will be reviewed later.

The town was the seat of the government for approximately 200 years and is home to some wonderful historic buildings particularly surrounding King's Square. First is the State House that dates from 1622, and Town Hall is nearby. The State House has been rented by the Masons for a single peppercorn per year for the last 200 years. When it is due (April), a colorful ceremony takes over the town. Also located near the square is St. Peter's Church dating from 1713, but there has been a church on the property since 1612. Admission to each of these buildings is free and worth taking some time to visit. Behind St. Peter's is the Bermuda Perfumery which is also located in an historic building. It's a great place to purchase a truly Bermudian gift. For a price.

On the hill above town is Fort St. Catherine which is about a 25 minute walk from King's Square. On the way are some rather quiet white sand beaches and a church that was never finished. The fort was built in 1612 and overlooks a beautiful stretch of the Atlantic Ocean. On the east end of the Parish is Gates Fort. It is about a forty minute walk from the square and you are unlikely to see many other people when you arrive making it easy to imagine standing guard a few hundred years ago.

Nightlife in St. George's is subdued to say the least, but it was exactly what I was looking for on this trip. There are a few bars in town and the occasional party yacht but not much else. St. George's is a perfect place to have a quiet dinner, and I did just that at the Carriage House restaurant on the harbor (no website). The food is standard British fare but is well prepared and is offered with tremendous service. The restaurant is housed in a 17th century building on the wharf adding to the ambiance. I had dessert outside at the Tavern By The Sea restaurant. The local hangout mentioned earlier is The Black Horse Tavern and Bar Restaurant on nearby St. David's island and can be reached by the pink public bus or a mini-bus. I used both having arrived by public bus, but returned by mini-bus as I missed the last scheduled stop due to savoring the local rockfish. You won't find many tourists, but it seems everyone from town is here. Although many guidebooks state that reservations are necessary for parties of 4 or more, it is best to make reservations even if you only need a table for two. Ask me how I know. A good place for lunch in nearby Smith's Parish is the North Rock Brewing Company, a microbrewery that serves an excellent fish chowder http://www.bermuda.com/northrock/. Speaking of fish chowder, it is a delicious concoction of the local catches garnished with sherry peppers, a Bermudian hot sauce. Delicious. The brews were pretty good too particularly the "Whale of a Wheat".

Some other do's:

• Visit Spittal Pond Nature Reserve in Smith's Parish. It's a short bus ride from St. George's and consists of some of the best scenery I viewed while in Bermuda.
• Have lunch at the Specialty Inn also in Smith's Parish.
• Visit St. David's Battery and Great Head Park.
• Have some Gosling's Rum.
• Stay longer than I did.

And some don'ts:

• White Horse Tavern (the Black Horse Tavern it is not).
• Crystal Cave (Touristy but what can I say. I'm a cave geek).
• Have your picture taken in the stocks at Town Hall.

Budget Wine of the Week

With the current economic uncertainty, I thought I would offer my trained opinion on wines costing less than $15. I see it as my contribution to budgeting while offering some reasonably priced gems or steering folks away from potential disappointment. I'll use a 20 point scale but may expand to 100 points for those who are more comfortable with that number if requested. I'll make an effort to review one wine per week. More if I have to.

This week's wine is from the Western Cape of South Africa. The Western Cape isn't one of the premier regions of South Africa, but there is potetial to find a decent budget wine. It's not Paarl after all. I tasted Guardian Peak's Shiraz 2004 with a price of about $14. Please find my notes below:

I found the appearance to be clear but a bit dull. There is significant sediment that collects at the bottom of the glass. This wine is not a looker. The color is a deep purple with light struggling to pass through. The edges are slightly copper in color inidicating that this wine has a little age. The nose is meaty. It's not roasted meat but closer to a braised filet. There is a strong presence of berries like blackberry jam. Despite being 5 years old, the acidity remains vibrant and crisp resulting in a Pavlovian response. This shiraz feels a bit sweet on the tongue, but I'll attribute that to it's alcohol content labelled at 14.5%. I would guess it's a little higher than that. The alcohol balances well with the acidity and makes this wine full bodied. It's a mouthful even with the softer, rounded tannins that are evident. You can almost chew this one. On the tongue the fruit is forward but not quite the bomb I was expecting. That's a good thing. I prefer the meatiness of a shiraz over the fruit and this one has a decent balance. The fruit is a bit like candied cherries and has a bit of length to it. This wine is fairly well made. I don't think I would serve this at a formal dinner, but rather would save this one for grilling some strip steaks on the braai. It's not bad as an apertif as well. So, I give it a 15/20 making it an average find. Considering the price tag, I think there are likely better wines in this price range. It's not a gem,but neither is it a dud.

Dublin, Ireland

After much thought, I decided my first post would be about my most recent trip. I travelled to Dublin in January of this year, but it happened to be for business instead of being one of my typical but not frequent enough adventures. So, for this post there won't be as many do's and don'ts or reviews. I'll start with the do's. The pubs aren't to be missed even if you don't imbide things of the fermented variety. Although I have to say that the Guiness was tremendous.......for a macrobrew. Maybe it was the environment, but I don't think so. Many of the pubs are historic and have been around longer than these United States. Besides, it's where you'll meet the locals and really get a good understanding of what it's like to be Irish. The pubs are also a great place to hear local musicians. If you go to one pub while in Dublin, I would recommend O'Donoghue's at 15 Merrion Row not far from St. Stephen's green. You can check it out here: http://www.odonoghues.ie/. I stopped in on a Monday evening to find no fewer than three groups of musicians playing guitars, tin whistles, bodhrans, and mandolins. In the rear of the pub is a "room" that's actually the alley with a tented roof and heaters. It's a unique way of getting around the smoking ban, and it's where you'll find the best musicians. The mix of music was eclectic with the classic Irish folk songs mixed with a variety of other styles. The crowd went into a frenzy when the band played John Denver's "Country Roads". Other pubs to consider include Doheny and Nesbitt across the street from O'Donoghues, and The Stag's Head near Trinity College. Both are historic with the latter boasting James Joyce as a past regular. Being a fan of the microbrew, I also stopped in for lunch and a few pints at Dublin's microbrewery, The Porterhouse, located on Parliament Street near the Temple Bar neighborhood. The Wrassler's Stout was the best that I sampled, but the brewery offers a wide range of brews. There were too many to sample during a business lunch. The Oyster Stout was also quite good but a little too carbonated for a stout. Both varieties have won awards, but the Wrassler's is highly decorated. You can check them out here http://www.porterhousebrewco.com/beers.html.

Another do is to visit some of the churches and cathedrals peppered throughout the city. Although St. Patrick's Cathedral is a beautiful site, the nearby Christ Church Cathedral is more impressive. Both charge an entry fee and are self-guided. However, there are roaming staff that are more than willing to share the history of the cathedrals. Other do's in the city include a whiskey tasting at the Celtic Whiskey Shop on Dawson Street near St. Stephen's green. However, unless you intend to buy a rare or obscure whiskey, you are better off making your purchase in the airport duty free shop. It's less of a hassle and the selection at the airport is surprisingly impressive. I bought the Red Breast 12 year old whiskey and would have been wise to get it at the airport.

Outside of the city are two historical sites that must be seen. Glendalough is located in the Wicklow Mountains and is the site of one of the first Christian monastic settlements in Europe dating from the 6th century A.D. The other historical site is the Druid burial site of Newgrange. Both sites are well preserved and are a sense of pride to the Irish people.

Now for the don'ts. I will list them in bullet points, and remember it's just one man's opinion.

• The Book of Kells @ Trinity College (The real book is currently on loan, but a nice, modern copy is available for viewing.)





• Irish National Stud (It's not what you think ladies, unless you were thinking of horses.)





• The Guinness Storehouse (Tourist trap! You're much better served, in all ways, by heading to a pub)





• Temple Bar (unless you want to hang out with a bunch of fellow American tourists.)