St. George's Parish sits at the northern end of the group of islands that make up Bermuda. St. George's Town is the focal point of the parish and is a 400 year old walkable town that was not too long ago named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For venturing further afield, the pink, public buses run frequently and are on time for the most part. Having just a long weekend to visit Bermuda, I had to focus on a manageable itinerary so as not to cram in too much at the risk of not really "seeing" anything. So, I did not travel to the more modern Hamilton City.
There was surprisingly much to see and do in the area surrounding St. George's Parish. I made Aunt Nea's Inn my homebase. The Inn sits on a quiet street and is only a 2 minute walk to King's Square in the heart of St. George's Town. Everything in Bermuda is pricey and Aunt Nea's was no exception costing US $250 per night http://www.auntneas.com/. The rooms are well equipped and feature four-post beds but smell a bit of mildew. I attributed that to the age of the home and the unrelenting humidity. A simple breakfast of toast, muffins, cereal, yogurt, and fruit is included and can be taken on the balcony overlooking the property's gardens in addition to the town and harbor. The staff were extremely engaging, helpful, and a highlight of the trip steering me to an excellent local restaurant that will be reviewed later.
The town was the seat of the government for approximately 200 years and is home to some wonderful historic buildings particularly surrounding King's Square. First is the State House that dates from 1622, and Town Hall is nearby. The State House has been rented by the Masons for a single peppercorn per year for the last 200 years. When it is due (April), a colorful ceremony takes over the town. Also located near the square is St. Peter's Church dating from 1713, but there has been a church on the property since 1612. Admission to each of these buildings is free and worth taking some time to visit. Behind St. Peter's is the Bermuda Perfumery which is also located in an historic building. It's a great place to purchase a truly Bermudian gift. For a price.
On the hill above town is Fort St. Catherine which is about a 25 minute walk from King's Square. On the way are some rather quiet white sand beaches and a church that was never finished. The fort was built in 1612 and overlooks a beautiful stretch of the Atlantic Ocean. On the east end of the Parish is Gates Fort. It is about a forty minute walk from the square and you are unlikely to see many other people when you arrive making it easy to imagine standing guard a few hundred years ago.
Nightlife in St. George's is subdued to say the least, but it was exactly what I was looking for on this trip. There are a few bars in town and the occasional party yacht but not much else. St. George's is a perfect place to have a quiet dinner, and I did just that at the Carriage House restaurant on the harbor (no website). The food is standard British fare but is well prepared and is offered with tremendous service. The restaurant is housed in a 17th century building on the wharf adding to the ambiance. I had dessert outside at the Tavern By The Sea restaurant. The local hangout mentioned earlier is The Black Horse Tavern and Bar Restaurant on nearby St. David's island and can be reached by the pink public bus or a mini-bus. I used both having arrived by public bus, but returned by mini-bus as I missed the last scheduled stop due to savoring the local rockfish. You won't find many tourists, but it seems everyone from town is here. Although many guidebooks state that reservations are necessary for parties of 4 or more, it is best to make reservations even if you only need a table for two. Ask me how I know. A good place for lunch in nearby Smith's Parish is the North Rock Brewing Company, a microbrewery that serves an excellent fish chowder http://www.bermuda.com/northrock/. Speaking of fish chowder, it is a delicious concoction of the local catches garnished with sherry peppers, a Bermudian hot sauce. Delicious. The brews were pretty good too particularly the "Whale of a Wheat".
Some other do's:
- Visit Spittal Pond Nature Reserve in Smith's Parish. It's a short bus ride from St. George's and consists of some of the best scenery I viewed while in Bermuda.
- Have lunch at the Specialty Inn also in Smith's Parish.
- Visit St. David's Battery and Great Head Park.
- Have some Gosling's Rum.
- Stay longer than I did.
And some don'ts:
- White Horse Tavern (the Black Horse Tavern it is not).
- Crystal Cave (Touristy but what can I say. I'm a cave geek).
- Have your picture taken in the stocks at Town Hall.
